Little Known Polyurea Faq's





Q? IS POLYUREA HARD OR SOFT?
A. Polyurea may be either hard or soft depending on the particular formulation and the intended use. Durometer ratings may range from Shore A 30 to Shore D 80.


Q? WHAT IS POLYUREA’S ABRASION RESISTANCE?
A. ArmorThane has run abrasion resistance testing according to ASTM D 4060 using the most aggressive abrader, the H-18 wheel. The abrasion loss is as noted in our material specification data sheets for the appropriate material. This test was utilized because it most nearly typifies the type of abrasion
attack found in industrial environments.
The industry standard testing for polyurethanes uses the abraser CS-17 wheel. This wheel is a much smoother, less abrading mechanism than the above-mentioned H-18 abrader wheel. The most severe utilization of polyurethanes is found on parking deck coating systems.
The hard polyurethane topcoats used in these systems generally have CS-17 losses between 5 – 10 milligrams. FSS 45DC and FSS 50DM report H-18 loss between 180 and 250 milligrams. This loss is much less severe than a loss of 5 – 10 milligrams on the CS-17 wheel.



Q? HOW WELL DOES POLYUREA ADHERE TO STEEL?
A. ArmorThane polyurea may be applied to adequately prepared A-36 metal substrates. The metal should be blasted to Near White or White, and have a blast profile of 5 mils. Adhesion values will exceed 1000 psi without using a primer.
Q? WHAT FACTORS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED WHEN ADHERING TO CONCRETE? A. No hard and fast number is useful to the designer. Generally, an adhesion value is a compromise between the type and condition of the concrete substrate, the stresses placed upon the membrane before project completion, and the requirements of the layer to withstand in-place use stresses. Where possible, concrete should have all surface paste removed and be free of laitance of any kind. Texture similar to 80-grit sandpaper as a minimum is desirable.
Since concrete has low tensile properties, especially at the surface faces of large plan areas, one rule of thumb is to expect adhesion to range around ten percent (10%) of ultimate compressive strength of the concrete. The best that can be expected is in the range of 350 psi to 450 psi for 4,000 psi concrete properly cured and of sufficient age to acquire its maximum physical properties.


Q? SHOULD THERE BE CONCERN THAT POLYUREA CONTAINS ISOCYANATE?
A. Polyurea products from ArmorThane are based on diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI) or 1,6 hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) polymer technology. These polymers have a low vapor pressure, which corresponds to a flat evaporation rate.
During the mixing, installation and curing process of all Polyurea, the release of any free monomers is virtually non-existent. The chemical design of these products entails an extremely rapid reaction between the molecules in each component. This quick reaction, coupled with the lack of any evaporative characteristics, allows these products to fall well within safety guidelines established under OSHA and ACGIH. The installation of these products may be made in incidental food contact locations and are certified under the FSIS procedures of the USDA.
Self-leveling polyurea products have been tested under field conditions during application for CalTrans (California Department of Transportation), with the detection of no free molecules in the environment. Review of MSDS information is recommended before handling of any products. When polyurea products are spray applied, use of an OSHA/NIOSH approved respirator should be a standard required procedure.



Q? HOW SHOULD POLYUREA BE PREPARED FOR OVERCOATING AFTER INITIAL CURE OF THE POLYUREA?
A. Before overcoating Polyurea makes sure, it is clean. For the first several hours after Polyurea has gelled, it may be suitable for overcoating without further preparation. If polyurea base coat material has been in place for longer than six hours, there could be problems with inter-coat adhesion.
Since fewer products are carried in an aromatic solvent, which tacktify Polyurea, you must undertake this process, to assure inter-coat bond apply a liberal amount of denatured alcohol (or more aggressive solvent such as acetone or MEK) to Polyurea and allowed to evaporate completely. This will re-tack the polyurea base coat and allow proper adhesion of the follow-on overcoat. This same procedure should be used when bonding Polyurea to Polyurea after an initial cure has taken place.


Q? WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AROMATIC AND ALIPHATIC POLYUREA SYSTEMS?
A. There are two different types of aliphatic polyurea systems currently on the market. One is the average high pressure/temperature, and the other is what is known as a “polyaspartic polyurea” type system. This polyaspartic system is different in that it uses an ester based resin component and has a longer pot life. It can be hand applied using close nap rollers; brushes; rakes or even airless sprayers.
The aspartic systems are not the high build coating typical of the “hot spray” polyurea systems. The unique aromatic polyurea systems must be processed through high pressure, heated plural component pumps, and sprayed through an impingement type spray-gun. This is true also for the aliphatic version of this type of system, the primary difference being the color stability of the aliphatic systems.
Q? WHICH ASTM STANDARDS ARE USEFUL WHEN PREPARING CONCRETE SURFACES?
A. The following ASTM standards can be a useful guide when you prepare concrete surfaces.
Standard Practice for Surface Cleaning Concrete for Coating (D 4258)
Standard Practice for Abrading Concrete for Coating (D 4259)
Standard Practice for Acid Etching Concrete (D4260)
Test Method for pH Chemically Cleaned or Etched Concrete Surfaces (D 4262)
Test Method for Indicating Moisture in Concrete by the Plastic Sheet Method (D 4263)
Test Method for Indicating Oil or Water in Compressed Air (D 4285)
Standard Practice for Surface Preparation of Concrete for Application of Chemical-resistant Resin Monolithic Surfacings (C 811)
For more information on these or other ASTM standards, visit www.astm.org.


Q? WHAT MAKES POLYUREA “GREEN”?
A. “Green Technology” is a familiar phrase in our daily vernacular, but did you know that there are many requirements to meet to call a product “Green”?
In the May 2008 issue of Coatings World, an article attributed to Anastas and Warner, “Green Chemistry Theory and Practice,” Oxford University Press, New York 1988, the authors submit 12 Principles of Green Chemistry.
The common understanding of “green” chemistry focuses on the source material, and how much of the finished good can be recycled at the end of the products life. These attributes are only part of the green picture, and additional criteria can be met for Polyurea to be considered “green.”
ArmorThane pure polyurea contains zero solvents. The systems are entirely reactive when properly applied. There is no, and the resulting membrane forms an inert and non-hazardous product.
Polyurea is processed in a closed system, with minimal human or environmental contact. Of course, the applicator at the end of the spray gun is required to meet safety requirements as specified by the manufacturer and Polyurea Development Association (PDA). Studies have been submitted
measuring the rapid decrease in free isocyanate as one moves away from direct spray application. (PDA safety CD)
The manufacturing of the base materials going into an ArmorThane polyurea formulation is all handled at ambient temperature and pressure, requiring minimal energy input during production.
Minimal waste is generated during spray of Polyurea and clean up requires only minimum amounts of solvent, which can be recycled. Pure ArmorThane Polyurea contains no catalysts which would remain in the environment or break down over time.
The applied ArmorThane polyurea systems are noted for their superior corrosion and erosion protection for substrates, preserving the structure and the surrounding environment. As well, the coating will last longer, extending the service life and decreasing the need to generate new waste from surface preparation and coating work.
ArmorThane is proud to participate in the stewardship of our environment and continues to search for additional ways we can offer products which will meet the needs of your community.

Polyurea FAQ's




Q? WHAT IS POLYUREA?
A. Polyurea is an organic polymer that is the reaction of isocyanate with an amine terminated polyether resin, forming a plastic-like or rubber-like compound that may be used in many of the same ways as older technologies – polyurethane, epoxy, vinyl ester, neoprene; to name a few.




Q? WHERE CAN POLYUREA BE USED?
A. As a general rule, ArmorThane Polyurea can be employed to contain any substance that may be directly discharged into conventional sanitary sewer systems. It may be easier to give examples of environments where Polyurea should not be used. As a general recommendation for constant exposure to direct chemical attack ArmorThane polyurea products may not be installed for attack by:
Halogenated Solvents:
1. Carbon tetrachloride
2. Chloroform
3. Methylene chloride
4. Tetrachloroethane
5. Trichlorethene
6. Trichloroethane
Non-Halogenated Solvents And Ketones:
1. Acetone
2. Acetonitrile
3. Acetophenone
4. Benzene
5. Butanol
6. Camphor oil
7. Cyclohexanone
8. Diethylether
9. Diisobutyl ketone
10. Ethyl acetate
11. Hexane
12. Methyl ethyl ketone
13. Methyl isobutyl ketone
14. Pentane
15. Phenol
16. Toluene
17. Xylene
Acidic compounds with a complete composite pH range equal to or below 4 Basic compounds with a whole composite pH range similar to or above 11 Note: Polyurea may contain Non-aqueous (anhydrous and anhydride compounds in granular, crystalline, or powder form) protected by an air drying system. Consult ArmorThane. Amine Attacking And Amine-Containing Compounds Strong, inorganic acids, organic acid halides, aldehydes, isocyanates, organic anhydrides. 1. Aminoethylethanolamine 2. Aniline 3. Ethylamine 4. Methylamine 5. Pyridine 6. Toluenediamine





Q? CAN ANYONE APPLY POLYUREA?
A. Polyurea requires specialized training and equipment for field application, whether used as joint filler or as a field applied coating. ArmorThane has an ongoing program of contractor training in place. There are qualified applicators in all regions of the U.S. and an expanding network of qualified
applicators throughout the world.




Q? WHAT TEMPERATURES WILL POLYUREA WITHSTAND?
A. ArmorThane polyureas begin to develop their physical properties within minutes of application. Among several very desirable features are their quick gel time and their glass transition temperatures that average -40 degrees F and +480 degrees F. Heat of deflection under no load is +250 degrees F. Safe
upper limit of working temperature is +350 degrees F, under no pressure. Polyurea will exhibit thermal shock debonding when subject to repeated periodic blasts of live steam. While Polyurea has high glass transition and heat of deflection temperatures, it will burn when exposed to direct flame. It will self extinguish when the fire is removed.

Want To Know All About Auto Repair? Keep Reading!



Are you in possession of a car owner? If you do, you may need repairs eventually. It is important to find a service to tend to your needs. The following information will help you find a great company to use.

This means the technician has completed a test and has more than two years of experience under his or her belt. This is one good way to separate the cream of the crop working on your vehicle.

Make sure that you do not neglect the radiator. Run your car for a bit, turn it off then pop the hood. Never open your radiator cap if the engine is running. Check radiator fluids using a dipstick and remember to always mix the coolant with water prior to adding it.

Ask the technician at the repair shop you are considering if they have worked on the same make and model of vehicle before. If they say that they have, they will know which areas to check first on your car.

Wash your car often so you can prevent rust from becoming a problem. All cars eventually succumb to rust, but the process can be delayed considerably by washing off any chemicals or salt immediately. Use a decent wax to protect your paint job as much as possible.

Be wary of unscrupulous mechanics who make unnecessary work on your vehicle. A good mechanic should let you know if they noticed parts that are starting to get worn down and will need to be replaced soon but they should not replace the part without getting your approval.Never take your vehicle to a auto technician who preforms unnecessary repairs.

If your headlights are not shining as brightly, they may just be dirty. Use glass cleaner to get the job done efficiently.

Look for signs that repair mechanics may give off. If they beat around the bush and act shifty, you may not be dealing with the best person. You should feel like you can trust them, so don't be afraid to choose another one.

Assemble a DIY auto repair tool kit to keep in the trunk of your trunk. Your car came with equipment to change a tire and other necessary items.A lug wrench and jack are essential. You should have a few screwdrivers with various shapes as well as different wrenches like for this kit.

Try looking for someone who fixes cars on their own garage. If they have auto repair experience they can provide quality work, you can get the same work done at a much cheaper price. You could save a lot of money and provide an independent worker by providing them with business.

Ask about labor rates or prices before giving the keys to a mechanic. Some shops have their rates in conspicuous places, so read them carefully and be sure to ask about anything you don't fully understand. You need to understand how the repairs are being billed for your car repairs. Some shops have estimated repair times established by the manufacturers they work with. Some "Minor" repairs could take all day job by those manufacturers' established times.

Just because the days are colder doesn't mean you shouldn't wash your car. Winter can ruin the quality of your vehicle.Sand and salt is something that can cause rust and corrosion.

Don't try and fix complex automotive issues. What seems like something small may actually be quite complicated, especially in the newer electric cars and also the newer computerized vehicles. Let the mechanic diagnose your problem.Let them know about any sounds you heard or what problems you have been having, but allow them to diagnose the final issue.

Not many people bother reading their car's owner's manual. You should read over the manual and know what you need to do if a problem comes about. Your manual contains everything you need to know about maintaining your vehicle and doing minor repairs yourself.

Many auto repair businesses have a less than stellar reputation. It can be difficult to find one that you can trust. Make sure you implement the advice given in the article above the next time your car needs to be worked on. Just a little preparation can make your life easier.